Soir Marché - the night markets in the Dordogne

Traditional apple pie from the Dordogne
A large part of everyday life in France is the market.
In the Summertime, especially in the Dordogne (but also in other areas), is the "Soir or Nocturne Marché". These markets are all about eating, drinking, dancing and mixing with the locals and other like minded travellers that are in the village for the evening.
When we first arrived here in Belves we were told about the Wednesday night Soir Marché in our village and we immediately pencilled it in for each of the weeks we are here for. Apparently, most of the locals go to the first couple and the last couple of the season as the ones in the height of Summer are crowded with all the tourists, but we were willing to brave all of them!
The Halle in Belves, decorated for the Summer festivities


So with plates, cutlery and glasses in tow, we head down each Wednesday to join the village. After the first one, we went out and bought a thick black marker so we could go down to the Halle early and reserve our seats by writing our names on the table cloth (paper) - just like the locals do.
The Thai food stand is always popular

as is the cous cows

and of course the  mussels

Each week we were faced with the delights of the area as well as a myriad of international foods. If you got down early enough you could see the processes taking place. You could watch the paella masters cooking their paella from scratch. The BBQ's get heated up in front of the butchers as they sealed their meats ready to be finished cooking when they were ordered. The strong smell of garlic emanating from the escargot stand where we introduced Kayla's friend to snails for the very first time. The massive pans of mussels being cooked in fried onions and white wine.
escargot
Kayla and Georgia with their entree of escargot

roasted pork

and for dessert, maybe a creme brûlée?


We have also visited a couple of other local villages to see their markets. The one in a nearby village St. Cyprien was fantastic. The food, similar to that in Belves but with the locals here having a definite liking for the "BBQ" stand - canard (duck) anyway you wanted, including duck hearts...which I have to say were beautiful. The queue at the BBQ stand was so big we couldn't not join it. One thing I have learnt in France is that if there is a queue, tack on to it - there is bound to be something good at the other end - usually you end up with the best local fromage, the tastiest patisserie or the best bread of the area!
beautiful fresh fish ready for the BBQ

Paella, jam packed with langoustines, mussels, prawns, calamari

anyone for a bit of fairy floss?

or maybe a pastry to finish off the meal?

Besides the food of course, there is the drinking! Generally at 5 euros per bottle, the local rosè washes down everything! Being the warmer months, rose is definitely the beverage of choice for all, and at 5 euros per bottle, who can complain?

St Cyrien marché

Belves marché

After the food is eaten, the wine continues to be consumed, the sun is setting and the band picks up the volume to encourage everyone to get up and dance. I have never needed too much encouragement to dance, and in this gorgeous setting, who could resist??




2 comments:

  1. My goodness guys, and you've certainly packed it all in over these past weeks. The continuation of your voyage of food is very impressive indeed and that the children are joining in with these culinary experiences is a credit to you all. I'm now looking forward to reading your 'own recipes' Kim that you will no doubt create with the usual amount of flair and style! Loads of love, WSM xx

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  2. Hi Katie,
    Yes, we need to stop eating soon!! Otherwise I may need to upgrade to business class! The cooking has slowed over the last couple of weeks as we are staying in small apartments that dont really have great kitchen or cooking facilities. I am used to small surroundings but a couple of essential kitchen utensils are also needed! The one we are currently in doesn't even have a peeler, wooden spoon, tongs etc... oh well, guess that just means we need to go out for tapas and pintxos!!
    Looking forward to seeing you soon!
    xo

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